The sun beat down upon the broad stretch of
sand as we pulled up to the park behind it that morning. The sun was only just
over the rim of the world, but it still lashed the sand with heat that rippled
off it. She looked over at me and grinned. She was a surfer, and the white
tipped waves were in full swing out on the water. I smiled back, looking
forward to seeing what she could do with the board. Covertly I was also looking
forward to seeing some spectacular wipeouts as well. She hadn’t been into the
water for a while. She had broken her leg once a few years ago and had almost
rebroken it once or twice when she’d gotten back into a car. She forgot things.
‘Let’s see how I go…’
I took a moment to look out over the
breakers before I replied.
‘Should be fun.’ Ten seconds later, we were
both out of the clapped out old station wagon and she was tearing at the straps
holding her board to the roof rack whilst I opened the boot and fumbled for
some sunblock and towels. I freed a pair of faded ones from the sea of clothes
and crap that we’d been living out of for the last however long, then began to
paw through, looking for the bottle. It was a mark on how messy the back of the
car was when she managed to get the board off before I found what I was after.
I heard her footsteps beating the carparks’ dirt, and looked around the boot.
She was already halfway across the park, huge yellow board ready.
‘Aren’t you gonna help me?’
‘See you down there, honey,’ the words
floated back to me in the mid morning stillness. I shook my head and went back
to my task.
I was left alone at the back of the car,
hunting the sunscreen through a total mess of life. Eventually I found it, then
straightened and moved towards the beach. I was struck, just then, by how empty
the scene was and how we seemed to be the only things consciously alive for the
moment. I stopped at the edge of the carpark and turned slowly, looking through
the whole panorama of where I was. Night still faded towards the West, over the
land. I could faintly see a star still shining there. The shore breeze swept in
and shook the eucalypts and pandanus that clustered in around the clearing for
the cars, seeming to move as one entity all around me. Sunlight shone in, and I
noted that the sky was still pink with morning. I was totally alone, and as I
turned, a horrible anxiety hit me. It is hard to describe even now, but for
some reason I turned back to where I was meaning to go, and leapt onto the
grass of the park. The sheer scale of the world around me crashed in at that
moment, and I wanted to be gone from the place. Behind me, the star faded.
The edge of the beach was distorted with
heat when I came to it, and the breeze that rippled it blew over me and cooled
me as I took in the vista. The sky was immense above us, and the few clouds
that were there moved in on the breeze. I savored the color changes the sun wrought
on them for a moment, that odd fear subsiding and already half forgotten. The
sea stretched away before me, out into eternity it seemed just then, and to
either side of me were the rocky walls of the bay we’d decided to come to. Even
these seemed huge and beautiful in the morning light, and I took in first one,
then the other, and wondered in a vague way how long they’d stood here and seen
this spectacle of morning. Beyond the dark line of the tide, the girl that I’d
come with seemed a tiny speck against the volume of nature that we were
presented with here. I was pleased to see her, and the last part of my fear
dissolved as I saw her paddling out, oblivious to me. Her yellow board was like
a beacon in amongst the shifting mass of water, and after a minute of taking in
the scene, I jogged across the burning sand to the cooler stuff the tide had
wet down, and sat for a while to keep watching.
I sat down on the beach, and watched her
for a while.
She surfed without any pattern or need for
one, and I clapped when she rode well and laughed when she fell off. Behind
her, the great ball of the sun rose slowly and steadily, and gradually the
crisp feeling of the new day fell away and the heat increased. I sat and
considered how simple our enjoyment was here, and was thankful that we’d come
down at the time we had. This thought led me to fulfill my own desire for
enjoyment, and I got up and began to walk down the beach alone. The sun and sea
were on my right, the dark rustling green of the park and open forest beyond to
my left. Noise moved through the air from both sides, and before me stretched
the dark yellow of the wet sand. Immediately I saw a darker patch in the
shadowy headland that lay at that end of the bay, and I decided that it would
be my destination. I strode for a while, curving down to the waterline to wet
my feet in the cold brine, and left a single set of prints behind me in the
sand. All the time, the noise filled the air and the behemoth of rock before me
loomed larger in my vision. I never looked back, secure in the idea that she’d
be amused for a while longer, and fell to listening, smelling and feeling my
surroundings as I moved, soaking up everything. The sun was warm, the water and
breeze were cold. The waves crashed near the shore, but always there was the
more terrestrial rustle of the forest, huge in the air. I smelled the salt,
felt the sand grind underfoot, and soaked it all in consciously, willing it to
be remembered. After what seemed like not long enough, I stood at the edge of
the shadow, and the hole in the rock was a deeper pool of darkness therein.
The climb up to the cave was short but hard,
and I was sweating by the time I hauled myself over its’ sharp lip. I was high
above the beach, and though I was panting and warm, I still shivered. There, in
the shade and away from the sun, the rock seemed to suck the heat away from me
and down into itself, to what purpose I couldn’t know. I took a moment there
and cast my eye out over the beach, and was pleased with what I saw. The beach,
the forest, and the headland at the other end of the bay all lay before me, and
along with the clouds everything moved with the invisible breeze. In the midst
of it all, the yellow slash of her board swung and slashed through waves. I
turned away after that, and made my way carefully into the mouth of the cave
I’d found. I wondered what I would find there. I had only made it a little way
in, perhaps ten paces, when the keening of the wind over the lip I’d hauled
myself over began to wail at my back, and the odd fear that I’d felt so
recently began to return. I did not turn, nor did I move at all. Before me lay
shadowclad rock, and I suddenly got the feeling that I was heading far away
from all that was alive, and gravitating towards something that was at best
dead and at worst something between the two. My mind went into freefall. The
sound of the wind welled up in that space, and suddenly I shivered more. The
rock was cold beneath my sandy feet, and I could see something the color of
bone lying deeper inside the dark confines of the place I’d come to, on the
ground. My mind began to spin, frightened. Even now I cannot explain the exact
trigger or even parameters of the feeling. I felt very alone, very cold, and
very, very far from anything meaningful. Anxiety held me to the spot for a few
moments more, and I thought I saw movement there in that dark place. At that I
turned and fled out of the cave, away down the rocks, and ran for a small while
back up the beach, in the sun. I still cannot say what gripped me in that cave
that morning, but I hope that whatever it was leaves me to my little life, and
doesn’t pay me any more mind.
I sat on the beach for two hours, lathered
in sunscreen and under the towels I’d bought down, and watched her. I laughed
when she fell off and clapped when she rode well, and enjoyed the simplicity of
the moment. She paddled into the shore eventually, and ran up to me with the
board under one arm, smiling broadly.
‘Havin’ fun, honey?’
‘Lovin’ it, mate,’ I replied, smiling back.
The sun sparkled off the sea, her hair, and still beat down upon us.
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